We are using a CBR1000RR engine from a motorcycle breakers. It is a 2010/2011 engine.

Instead of rolling around a floor or bench, I bought an engine stand and made some brackets to mount it.

There are a few jobs before it is mounted in the chassis:
Check clutch plates and fit heavy duty clutch springs
Remove the water pump and fit a blanking plate
Check valve clearances
Change the sump

Fit some sensors, the oil cooler take off and a water pipe that is hard to get at with the engine in place.

Sump

We have a new billet sump from ARL. It comes with a new pick up tube, a baffle plate and the sump itself in two pieces.

The original sump and oil pick up removed.

Baffle plate, new oil pickup fitted.

The oil feed tube had to be removed and refitted to get the baffle plate in place

And now with the two piece sump fitted.

Check the exact fitment before final fit. I had to grind away some ally from around the area that sits over the oil pickup tube as it was fouling on the tube before it properly sat flush on the crank case surface.

Use a smear of appropriate gasket sealant before tightening the bolts in a criss cross fashion.

Water pump

A separate water pump will be used as the original isn't butch enough to keep the engine cool.

Once removed you can buy a blanking plate for a sum of money which suggests it may have some exotic material in it. Or you can modify the original and reuse it.

Like this.

First remove the end of the shaft that locates onto a spigot in the gearbox. It is hardened steel so you'll need a small angle grinder. My Dremel did the job.

 

Remove the pump housing and cut down the impeller vanes so

they are flush with the body of the impeller.

Then replace the now non functioning pump back in place. Later I'll make a small cover for it so it looks more 'finished'

Clutch

First buy a Haynes manual for the year of manufacture for your engine. It has all you need to know about stripping down and rebuilding the clutch.

Check the remaining thickness of the fibre clutch plates and compare to limits in the manual.

There is a different fibre plate at the bottom of the pile of plates, referred to as plate 'A' in the manual. This has different thickness spec. Check for distortion on the steel plates, any overheating with 'blueing' and the condition of the bearings etc.

I ordered 15% heavier clutch springs to replace the originals.

Also had to order a clutch nut tool. A standard socket won't fit.

There is an odd instruction in the manual to insert three 6mm bolts into holes in the centre part of the clutch. This so the whole unit can be pulled out of the clutch basket without all the plates and rings falling apart. Use these to reassemble as well, but don't leave them in there.

If you have the drive sprocket, put the gearbox in gear and use it hold the clutch while undoing and then tightening the clutch centre nut.

Basically a strong steel bracket from your odds and sods draw fitted between the sprocket and the edge of the engine stand. 

Or buy a clutch holding tool if you love spending money on things you will only ever use once.

At some point remove the cam cover and check valve clearances are all within spec, although that can be done with the engine in place.

Sensors:

Oil temperature sensor (or sender, whatever).

Drill a 11/32 hole in the centre of the small oil cooler.

Tap with a 1/8 NPT tap.

The tap is conical in shape, it will tighten up the further it goes in.

Put some sealant at the top of the the threads on the sensor and screw in until tight.

It doesn't seat down, just jams into the thread.

For the oil pressure, remove the original oil pressure sensor and replace with a BSP threaded flexi pipe to connect to a remote sensor. The remote sensor needs to be mounted on the chassis or it will get shaken to pieces.

We are using a larger oil radiator mounted on the offside of the chassis and outside the engine bay. Remove the oil filter, screw in the oil cooler adapter and then screw the filter back onto the adapter. Point the hoses towards the offside of the car and cut around 1 meter of hose to connect to the oil cooler radiator

Remove the original sprocket and replace with the propshaft adapter

After all that, we should be ready to install the engine into the chassis.