We have an oil cooler radiator on the offside and a large water cooler radiator on the nearside.

Oil Radiator
The oil rad can be large, for racing and track days, or small for road and/or occasional track days at sensible speeds.

We have a small oil rad here and it can be mounted exactly square to the vehicle. The panel it is bolted to is at an angle so we have cut some angled tube to accommodate the angle.

Make up some small brackets to secure it to the floor panel as well.

You may wish to check where he rear body panel and side pod panel is going to sit when considering where to site the oil rad. In this position we just about clear the body panels.

Water Radiator

This is a much larger rad so it ends up having to be at quite an angle.

Again, to accommodate the angle we are bolting the rad to the panel at, we have a 12mm ID tube cut to a suitable angle.

A similar solution is on the other side of the panel allowing the 6mm bolt to sit properly at an angle when tightened.

Steel grid installed to prevent stone damage to the radiator.

Compromise between grid size being large enough to allow sufficient air flow, but small enough to stop stone damage, we hope.

Coolant hoses and connections

Here is the basic layout of the hose connections around the new electric water pump and radiator.

Note the central outlet hose connects to the lower of the radiator connections. The upper rad connection goes down the side of the engine to connect (eventually) to the thermostat housing.

There will be a lot of hose cutting.

Fit a jubilee clip and use a sharp knife around the hose.

Some pics to show the layout of the coolant hoses.

The header tank sits here. The tank has a square plate bracket which is drilled & tapped into the chassis rail between the engine mounts. 

There are two small bore hose connections. The hose from the thermostat housing goes to the upper most of the two tank connections. The lower one goes to the top of the radiator. The overflow outlet just runs to the rear of the car, make sure any overflow can't get on to the rear tyres.

The top end of the tank flexes and will get fatigued so I have put a couple of small braces to the fuel level gauge using the good old self tapper screws.

One day I'll get a fuel tank with a proper flange for the gauge.

On the right is the relay for the water pump, not wired up yet.

The pump is an EWP80 from Craig, Davies and comes all the way from Australia.

The wiring is straight forward apart from they seem to supply an earth connection from the pump to the relay with no possibility of grounding the connection. So remove the earth wire from the connector block leaving just the live feed to the pump, then properly ground the earth wires from relay and pump to chassis ground.