As we are not using this on the road, the only electrics and wiring we need concern ourselves with is about engine management and cockpit switches and displays.

However, the main thing you need to know is that this is going to be a right sod.

I believe ARL will flog you a custom made loom. I didn't go that route as it would take far too long to raise the necessary finances and I am not even on nodding terms with any hedge fund managers, so I have had to make do with the original loom that came with the engine from the breakers.

Layout

First thing is to discard the vacuum canister and the associated small bore rubber pipes and solenoids.

We can also discard the ignition switch, but we must keep the toroidal ring that surrounds the key when it is in the ignition. This is part of the HISS security system and the engine won't run without it.

I have fixed the toroidal HISS thing to a small bracket with the key set in the middle of the ring.

Then bolted it to a convenient location in the engine bay.

The cable is then connected back to it's original connection going to the ECU.

The layout of the loom is really dictated by the connections to the spark plugs and fuel injectors.

We have a convenient plastic guard on the loom that fits neatly to the air box as it did when the engine was in the bike.

From here we can connect all eight fuel injectors and several sensors on the engine, knock sensor, cam position, throttle position, water temp senders.

There are other bits of hard plastic that served as guide and protection for the loom. These can be stripped of and discarded.

The standard loom connection to the fuse and relay box is long enough to mount the box on the central chassis rail. I drilled two holes, finding a path that missed the fuses and relays and fixed in place with a couple of long 5mm bolts/screws.

At the back are the connections to the voltage regulator. These wires had to be extended.

The voltage regulator  has to be mounted in a lot of air flow. It seems they don't do well in the confines of the engine bay so I have mounted mine here with a piece of right angled all riveted to the chassis frame and side panel.

We can now connect the fuel pump, install a battery and mount the starter motor relay just above the battery. We don't have a reverse motor fitted so the standard bike battery will be fine.

There are a lot of unused connectors that can be removed. Those that provide connections to lights, indicators, handle bar switches, instrument cluster can all be removed, the cut wires protected with heat shrink to prevent any accidental earthing. Once all that is done we have a much simplified loom.

Starter motor and fuel pump

The two required items for the engine to start is the fuel pump and the starter motor.
There are quite a few things that will conspire to stop either of these working.

First there is a tip sensor. This cuts the fuel and engine if the bike and rider find themselves in a horizontal plane. Fix this sensor to a convenient chassis rail in the correct upright orientation.

There are three cut out switches. Clutch, neutral and side stand. All three work by creating a path to earth if the sidestand is up, the clutch lever pulled in and the gearbox is in neutral. Find the relevant connectors for these and hard wire the feed to a permanent earth.

Now connect in the engine kill switch, a switch for the ignition and a push button for the starter.

Set the kill switch to run and turn on the ignition. You should hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds to prime the fuel rails. If you don't hear the pump run, the starter probably won't turn either. Check all your cutouts as above have a path to earth. If you are using any original connectors, check for bad earth where there may be build up corrosion.

At this point you may want to try a first start of the engine. That is covered in the Engine section.

Sensors, Sendors, gauges etc.

Fitting these is covered in Engine section so all I'll say here is that the oil pressure gauge and the water temp gauge must be properly earthed. These things work by having a variable resistance to earth which decreases as the temperature increases or pressure builds.

If you are using the DigiDash 2 (and if not why not?) you should see ~5v from the DigiDash to each of these sendors.

Here we have the oil pressure gauge mounted on the bulk head using a rubber lined P clip.

The body of the gauge has a jubilee clip with an earth lead riveted to provide a path to earth.

Do something similar with the short metal pipe that connects into silicon hoses from the thermostat housing

Loom extensions up to cockpit.

As I have no need to give pleasure to the nice IVA man, all I need running from the engine bay to the cockpit are connections for the dashboard which comprises ignition and kill switches, starter button and all the wires for the various senders up to the dash display.

So connect all your sendor wires (water and oil temp, oil pressure high and low, fuel gauge, gearbox neutral), arrange extensions for ignition switch, kill switch and starter button, bundle them all up and feed them into a long split sleeve pipe and point it in the general direction of the cockpit.

If you feed the loom like this                                        So instead I had to feed the loom

You won't half regret it later when                                out the top of the engine bay and

you come to fit the bodywork.                                       run it inside the cockpit tucked

You could run it inside the black                                   under the top chassis rail.

inner vane, but you'll have trouble

getting it past the oil cooler.

I'll cover connections to the dashboard in Cockpit section.